Published on Apr 2, 2012
BY ROGER VOSS
Wines being poured blind for the Sauternes and Barsac tasting at Bordeaux's En Primeur
The 2011 Bordeaux red vintage will not be as impressive as the 2010. At the en primeur annual barrel tasting event currently underway in Bordeaux, attendees have arrived eager for the first chance to taste the 2011 vintage.
Indeed, 2011 is a very different vintage from the expensive and seductive 2009 and the firm, long-lasting 2010. The reds offer some fine wines to drink relatively early on (and Bordeaux needs those), with a few standouts offering ageability.
According to Claire Villars-Lurton of Château Haut-Bages Libéral in Pauillac, the Cabernet Sauvignon from the Médoc was great, but “the Merlot was not nearly so good and we had problems.”
Thomas Duroux, CEO of Château Palmer in Margaux, agrees that for Merlot, 2011 was “a lesser vintage.”
The weather in 2011 was unusual. As one vigneron put it: “We had summer in the spring, fall in the summer and then summer again in the fall.” Compound this with hail and drought—less than half the normal rainfall—and the growing conditions proved to be a challenge.
The view from the market will develop as the week progresses and as thousands of world buyers taste the wines. Actual prices won’t arrive for at least several weeks. But get out your scorecard and be ready, as Wine Enthusiast presents en primeur coverage all week.
Before the tastings began, Olivier Bernard, co-owner of Château Guiraud in Sauternes said, “Sauternes is magnificent, one of the best vintages ever,” and he was right. The 2011 vintage in Sauternes and Barsac is a great vintage. It’s equal in quality to the 2001 and better than the very good 2007.
Anne Perez of Château d’Yquem concurs, and describes it by referencing the estate’s long history: “The conditions were just like 1893,” she says.
What made this vintage so good for sweet wines? It was what Aline Baly, proprietor of Château Coutet in Barsac, calls the “beautiful Indian summer effect.” Sauternes needs rain, followed by a long period of sun. It got both, and at just the right time.
“The first rain arrived and brought botrytis, fixing it in the skin,” says Olivier Castéja, owner of Château Doisy-Védrines in Sauternes. “Then the weather was beautiful again, so we didn’t have the gray rot that can destroy the grapes.”
The result is wines that simultaneously have great richness and lightness. Huge botrytis flavors and rich tropical fruits are balanced by tense, delicious orange-zest acidity. These are wines that will last for many years. So far, Sauternes is the success story of 2011.
Bordeaux wines tasted from barrel are awarded scores in three-point ranges. When the wines are bottled in two or three years, the wines are reassessed, and final ratings are given.
95–97 Château Doisy-Védrines (Barsac). A gorgeous wine that offers a firm, botrytis character, with aromas of spice, apple and orange zest. It’s powerful and meant for long aging. ––R.V.
95–97 Château Rieussec (Sauternes). This wine shows sheer opulence; it’s beautifully rich and ripe, powered by complex flavors of orange zest and superripe mango. It’s fresh, showing this vintage’s character. ––R.V.
95–97 Château Suduiraut (Sauternes). Opulent and finessed, this has great weight, and scents of ripe fruit and botrytis. Stylish flavors of yellow fruit, citrus and cinnamon combine with bright acidity on the rich palate. ––R.V.
94–96 Château de Rayne Vigneau (Sauternes). There is great freshness in this wine, which also has ample weight and complex, rich fruit. It’s powered by acidity, remaining lively and bright, and is likely to age well. ––R.V.
94–96 Château Guiraud (Sauternes). An intense wine that is rich, rounded, dense and solid. Along with its weighty, ripe fruit, there are suggestions of acidity. Layered with botrytis flavors. ––R.V.
94–96 Château Rabaud-Promis (Sauternes). This wine dances so easily on the palate, yet still has the weight and richness of the year. There is a delicacy here, followed by an even denser intensity. It charms now, but will surely age over many years. ––R.V.
93–95 Château Caillou (Barsac). A ripe, balanced wine, with a structure that’s well-integrated into its rich, sweet fruit. It has an edge of spice and bitter-orange flavors to go with the opulent front texture. ––R.V.
93–95 Château de Myrat (Barsac). Rich fruit flavors of spiced orange are layered into its structure. With a smooth texture and fine balance, it is opulent, crisp and dense. A wine for long-term aging. ––R.V.
93–95 Clos Haut-Peyraguey (Sauternes). Spice from new wood and the superripe, botrytized fruit show strongly in this powerful, impressive wine. It has weight, structure and intensity. It will surely age for many years. ––R.V.
93–95 Château la Tour Blanche (Sauternes). This is a crisp-textured wine, with a complex structure of rich, dense fruits, spice and wood. The wine is only just coming together, promising many years of aging ahead. ––R.V.
93–95 Château Lamothe-Guignard (Sauternes). Very rich in botrytis, this is a dense, opulent wine that’s charged and hugely ripe. The acidity is there in the background. ––R.V.
92–94 Château Coutet (Barsac). A smooth, mellifluous wine, with its intensity masked by tight acidity. It shows the weight of the vintage, and the power of the botrytis that’s interspersed with flavors of orange zest and lime. It should age magnificently. ––R.V.
92–94 Château d’Arche (Sauternes). An impressive wine that has weight and intense botrytis notes. Its acidity gives a delicious lift to its powerful flavors of yellow fruits, tangerines and light wood spices. ––R.V.
92–94 Château de Fargues (Sauternes). A smooth and rich wine that also shows depth of flavor. Wrapped in its tight texture are notes of peach and mango, bitter orange and lemon zest. It’s a fine wine that should age for many years. ––R.V.
92–94 Château de Malle (Sauternes). An intensely powerful wine—so rich that it overwhelms with its weight. At the same time, there is a great core of fine acidity that cuts the richness well. ––R.V.
92–94 Château Doisy-Daëne (Barsac). Herbaceous aromas are followed by nutmeg and crisp fruit. This has the great ripe fruit of the year without the huge intensity; it’s a wine that has subtlety as well as complexity. ––R.V.
92–94 Château Nairac (Barsac). This wine shows its crisp side immediately, followed by flavors of rich fruit. The wine has weight that lies underneath its deliciously fresh character, and there is a final note of spiced orange. ––R.V.
92–94 Château Romer (Sauternes). A smooth, richly textured wine, with flavors of sweet orange and spice that combine with dark wood and pomegranate. ––R.V.
92–94 Château Sigalas-Rabaud (Sauternes). This wine has both weight and a light touch. Its weight is driven by the powerful botrytis character and ripe apricot fruit; its lightness comes from a straight line of intense acidity that cuts through the wine. It should age a long time. ––R.V.
91–93 Château Bastor-Lamontagne (Sauternes). With great swathes of spice, this is a wine with fruit that’s still emerging. It has weight and delicious intensity. With its layered structure of acidity and tannin, this is for long-term aging. ––R.V.
91–93 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes). A beautifully-fresh wine, with its acidity cutting through the weight of its smooth fruit—like scissors cutting through velvet. Intense, with spice and acidity showing through on the finish. ––R.V.
91–93 Château Suau (Barsac). Initially this is just a seductive effort; but then its intensity and structure emerge, creating a wine of great complexity. Its botrytis character adds considerable weight. ––R.V.
90–92 Château Broustet (Barsac). This wine shows a powerful new-wood character, with a ripe, rich and very smooth texture lying underneath. ––R.V
90–92 Château Filhot. (Sauternes). There are some reductive, meaty aromas on this barrel sample, but the palate still shows the fine potential of this wine. It has all the weight and richness of the vintage, with underlying crisp acidity. ––R.V.
89–91 Château Lamothe (Sauternes). An apple-fresh wine, with its richness coming through slowly. It has weight as well as a touch of marmalade spice and lemon acidity. With its light character, it’s delicious. ––R.V.
En Primeur, Day Two: Margaux, Moulis, Médoc and Listrac
Despite a difficult vintage, hard work shows in the vineyard, and in the glass.
Published on Apr 3, 2012
BY ROGER VOSS
The plow horses of the Wertheimer family’s Château Rauzan-Ségla in Margaux started work Tuesday on the 2012 vintage. The Wertheimers also own the French fashion house Chanel. Château Palmer is in the far background.
Bordeaux wines tasted from barrel are awarded scores in three-point ranges. When the wines are bottled in two or three years, the wines are reassessed, and final ratings are given.
95–97 Château Palmer (Margaux). A wine that has density, structure and firm tannins, with touches of wood. At this stage, it is solid and impressive; and the tannins draw the great fresh fruit into the heart of the wine. —R.V.
93–95 Château Kirwan (Margaux). Dense and ripe, this wine boasts sweet tannins and flavors of ripe plums. With the vintage’s tight, taut acidity, the aging potential is there. —R.V.
92–94 Château Prieuré-Lichine (Margaux). Firm and complex, it shows both ripe fruit and weighty tannins, and is still very closed and tight. This is a powerful expression of the vintage—a wine that should age well. —R.V.
91–93 Alter Ego de Château Palmer (Margaux). A wine that shows excellent structure, with ripe fruit and soft, warm tannins. It has weight while retaining its crisp acidity and intense black-currant flavor. —R.V.
91–93 Château Brane-Cantenac (Margaux). Solid and dominated by dry tannins from both wood and fruit, this wine has intense, juicy black-fruit flavors. It’s open and lively, but shows a core of dense dryness.—R.V.
91–93 Château Cantenac Brown (Margaux). This is a big, concentrated wine that shows intensity of well-balanced tannins and juicy fruit. It’s ripe, with obvious aging potential. —R.V.
91–93 Château Lascombes (Margaux). Big, bold and fruity, this shows plenty of rich blackberry-juice flavor and fine tannins. The fruit and tannins are well balanced, with a juicy character on the finish. —R.V.
91–93 Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux (Margaux). Very floral, this soft wine has smooth fruits and black-currant acidity; it represents Margaux’s elegant side. —R.V.
90–92 Château Chasse-Spleen (Moulis-en-Médoc). Big and firm tannins are palpable from the start, with a ripe and fruity core underneath. It has concentration along with the typical juicy character of the vintage. —R.V.
90–92 Château d’Arsac (Margaux). This is a big, ripe and fruity wine that’s packed with flavors of spice and blackberry. It needs to age for its dry core of dense tannins to soften. —R.V.
90–92 Château d'Issan (Margaux). A dense wine that’s full of black plums and firm tannins. It has weight at the front and juicy freshness on the finish. —R.V.
90–92 Château Ferrière (Margaux). Firm and complex, this wine is smoothed by some new wood, but dominated by flavors of ripe black plum and berry. It has weight, its tannic core surrounded by a rich, soft texture. —R.V.
90–92 Château Giscours (Margaux). Ripe, rich and soft, this wine has open, juicy fruit and attractive red plum flavors; it already shows its fruity character. —R.V.
90–92 Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry (Margaux). This wine feels solid, with its tannins forming a base for the juicy red- and dark-berry flavors. It shows a dry side and a dense finish. —R.V.
90–92 Château Monbrison (Margaux). A complex, firm wine, with its tannins on the surface and fruit underneath; it will be a slow wine to develop. —R.V.
90–92 Château Rauzan-Ségla (Margaux). Dense, with up-front tannins, this feels quite severe, with an austere, mineral character and a solid finish. —R.V.
89–91 Château Dauzac (Margaux). Initially lean, this wine then shows severe, firm tannins followed by rich blackberry fruits. Its dark intensity should offer good aging in a wine that will always have a serious side. —R.V.
88–90 Château Desmirail (Margaux). A solid, dark and complex wine, with intense tannins that are powered by wood spice and black currant. It has ample weight while showing some of the vintage’s poise and crispness. —R.V.
89–91 Château du Tertre (Margaux). Forward, with juicy fruit that offers plenty of acidity and seemingly-soft tannins, this is a wine that should develop easily and quickly. —R.V.
89–91 Château Labégorce (Margaux). Firm and dark, with tannins dominating the ripe fruit, this wine’s wood aging shows strongly now; and the fruit weight is not yet there. —R.V.
89–91 Château Poujeaux (Moulis-en-Médoc). This wine feels relatively light. It has juicy fruit and dark tannins, with a considerable note of new, smoky wood. —R.V.
88–90 Château d'Angludet (Margaux). Spice and new wood are the prominent elements. This wine’s fruit is bright and black-currant flavored, with its dry core still buried. —R.V.
88–90 Château Deyrem Valentin (Margaux). Soft tannins and a dense texture help to create a forward, fruity wine with a very juicy and spicy finish. —R.V.
88–90 Château Preuillac (Médoc). A wine that’s about structure and presence, it has velvety tannins and flavors of mint, spice and black currant.—R.V.
88–90 Château Rauzan-Gassies (Margaux). Full and juicy, it has sweet tannins that parallel the intensely-juicy fruit. It’s layered, with acidity that keeps the dryness at bay. Lively and fresh on the finish. —R.V.
87–89 Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux (Moulis-en-Médoc). A wine with serious tannins and intense acidity. It has tobacco and spice flavors, with its fruit in the background. —R.V.
87–89 Château Marquis de Terme (Margaux). Tobacco and smoke aromas mark the nose. On the palate, there is weight and solid, extracted tannins; its fruit is just showing through the dense, compact structure.—R.V.
87–89 Château Maucaillou (Moulis-en-Médoc). Smoothed by new wood, this wine has a ripe, almost creamy texture. Its blackberry flavors are ripe, juicy and forward. —R.V.
87–89 Château Mongravey (Margaux). Mint and eucalyptus aromas signal the new wood in this wine. The wood has smoothed out its tannins, yielding a wine with juicy fruit. —R.V.
87–89 Château Siran (Margaux). This wine shows very firm, very dense tannins. It is solid, with its fruit well buried beneath its dry surface. This will likely always be a dry wine. —R.V.
86–88 Château Fonréaud (Listrac-Médoc). Heavy on the toasty new wood, the wine has a rough character that comes through. It feels firm and very dry. —R.V.
86–88 Château Fourcas-Dupré (Listrac-Médoc). A wine that shows attractive acidity and soft red-berry flavors, as well as dark, edgy tannins. —R.V.
86–88 Château Haut Breton Larigaudière (Margaux). This wine is dominated by new wood, with caramel and sweet fruit flavors. It feels unbalanced, with the acidity way behind the fruit. —R.V.
86–88 Château les Ormes Sorbet (Médoc). Soft and fruity, the tannins offer a light counterpoint to the red- and dark-berry flavors. Its acidity is very present. —R.V.
86–88 Château Pontac Lynch (Margaux). A wine that’s likely to develop quickly. It has spice and sweet fruit flavors, with its acidity forming a layer between its tannins and wood. —R.V.
85–87 Château Greysac (Médoc). This is a light wine that will develop quickly. It has red-berry flavors, with notes of spice and bell pepper in the background. —R.V.
85–87 Château Paveil de Luze (Margaux). Ripe, soft and fruity, this wine feels light. It’s enjoyable for its juicy berry flavors and open acidity. —R.V.
En Primeur, Day Three: Saint-Julien, Pauillac, Saint-Estèphe and Haut-Médoc
Rumors about reduced Bordeaux starting prices pour in at En Primeur.
Published on Apr 4, 2012
BY ROGER VOSS
Bordeaux wine traders taste wines at Château Cos d’Estournel in Saint-Estèphe. Photo courtesy Kathy Buckley.
So, where are the 2011 stars?
The wines that Mouton and the other producers in the northern Médoc will be selling are the red-wine stars of the 2011 vintage. This is where Cabernet Sauvignon is king, and where this great grape has powered through a difficult year with flying colors.
Lush, fleshy wines are the norm. The tannins are just as powerful as in 2010 but the acidity and the fresh black-currant flavors integrate them. Wines are shining in Saint-Julien, with Léoville Barton and Ducru-Beaucaillou in peak form, while less well-known properties like Belgrave in Haut-Médoc are showing improvement.
In Pauillac, Pontet-Canet continues its impressive run of vintages, followed closely by Mouton, Lafite and Latour, the first growths. The disappointments have shown a more tannic, less balanced character: Château Haut-Bages Libéral and Grand-Puy-Lacoste in Pauillac and Phélan Ségur in Saint-Estèphe, among them.
Everyone agrees that this is not 2009 or 2010. “It’s not as glorious,” Jean-Guillaume Prats of Château Cos d’Estournel in Saint-Estèphe says. “Technically it was difficult, we had to work hard. It was a wine I call ‘back to the future,’ like 1986 or 1996, but with so much more technical know-how. We have prosperity now, so we can afford to take risks.” Hélène Genin of Château Latour echoed the difficulties of the vintage. “We had 200 pickers, more than usual, because of botrytis in the Merlot.”
And yet, through all the problems of the year, great wines have been made, particularly in Saint-Julien and in Pauillac. At Château Pichon Longueville in Pauillac, managing director Christian Seely characterized the vintage: “At its best it has a wonderful freshness and a delicate character that is surprising and delightful. You have enormous tannins, but they are enveloped by the fruit. Get the balance right in 2011 and you have very good wine.”
Bordeaux wines tasted from barrel are awarded scores in three-point ranges. When the wines are bottled in two or three years, the wines are reassessed, and final ratings are given.
96–98 Château Pontet Canet (Pauillac). The fruit is very pure with a great depth of flavor. This wine has weight, and intense flavors of dark plum and sweet fruit. Impressive. —R.V.
95–97 Château Léoville Barton (Saint-Julien). This wine is immensely dark, powered by black plum and a ripe, complex structure; its elements are already molding into place. Expect great things of this wine. —R.V.
94–96 Château Cos d'Estournel (Saint-Estèphe). Powerful tannins are embedded into this wine’s huge velvet cushion of ripe black plum, spiced fruit and chocolate. The wine shows the juicy character of the vintage, which follows right to the end with firm tannins. —R.V.
94–96 Château Ducru Beaucaillou (Saint-Julien). This wine is big, dense and impressive with plenty of concentration as well as acidity. It is balanced, bringing the big, ripe black-fruit flavor and firm tannins together with great style. —R.V.
94–96 Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac). Like so many wines in this vintage, this shows black-currant acidity. It’s lively and fruity, with the firm tannins providing a counterpoint. —R.V.
94–96 Château Montrose (Saint-Estèphe). Powerful yet still fruity, this is a true wine of 2011. It shows dark tannins and juicy fruit in equal measure. The wine has weight, complexity and power. A real success. —R.V.
93–95 Château Batailley (Pauillac). A perfumed wine that’s soft and ripe. It has delicious flavors of juicy fruit and black currant, as well as lively acidity. Its depth of flavor comes with layers of fruit rather than tannins. —R.V.
93–95 Château Clerc Milon (Pauillac). This is a structured and complex wine, with dominating sweet tannins. At the same time, there is fruitiness and juiciness that add freshness to the finish. —R.V.
93–95 Château Gloria (Saint-Julien). A powerful wine—its concentrated tannins contrast its underlying juicy fruit. This is a flavorful medley of prunes, dark plums and blackberries; the finish is marked with juiciness. —R.V.
93–95 Grand Puy Ducasse (Pauillac). A wine that shows rounded, opulent fruit. Its structure has a dark side that’s melded into its rich fruits. Weight and juiciness combine on the finish. —R.V.
93–95 Château Lafon-Rochet (Saint-Estèphe). This wine has richness, weight and dark tannins, with balanced fruit and a ripe mouthfeel. It’s powered by spice and blackberry flavors. —R.V.
93–95 Château Lagrange (Saint-Julien). Smoky aromas and new-wood flavors mark this wine. It has weight, as well as a concentrated core of tannins; and it shows long-term aging potential. —R.V.
93–95 Château Langoa Barton (Saint-Julien). This wine is powerful and concentrated, with its tannins showing. It is perfumed, ripe and offers density that’s impressive for the year. —R.V.
93–95 Château Léoville Poyferré (Saint-Julien). Ripe, fruity and powerful, this wine has intense Cabernet black-currant flavors, with plenty of richness and concentration. It shows the acidity and the bright fruit of the year. —R.V.
93–95 Château Pichon Longueville (Pauillac). Big tannins, smoky wood notes and prominent fruit mark this wine, along with acidity and freshness. It’s powerful, with the most gentle structure of concentrated dusty tannins and intensely-fresh blackberry-juice flavors. —R.V.
93–95 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (Pauillac). This is powered by tannins while also keeping its fresh fruit intact. There is a mineral texture that’s layered with a juicy fruit character on the finish. —R.V.
93–95 Château Talbot (Saint-Julien). A dark and brooding wine, its fruit is firmly embedded in the tannins. The wine seems to hold its fire, and is both dense and concentrated. —R.V.
92–94 Château Belgrave (Haut Médoc). This is a dark wine that’s dominated by firm and dry tannins. It has weight and power, with juicy plum flavors showing slowly under the tannins. Shows long-aging potential. —R.V.
92–94 Château Beychevelle (Saint-Julien). A very firm and closed wine, it shows its tannins rather than its fruit. With its weight, this dark wine should become rounded with age. —R.V.
92–94 Château Branaire-Ducru (Saint-Julien). This wine is based on tannins, yet it also has weight and a complex fruit structure. Its power lies in the density of its texture. —R.V.
92–94 Carruades de Lafite (Pauillac). Serious and structured, this is a concentrated dark-hued wine. It has all the acidity of the vintage while also showing firm tannins. A dry and powerful second wine. —R.V.
92–94 Château Croizet-Bages (Pauillac). Mint, smooth fruit and new-wood flavors overlay the firm tannins. Juicy and attractive, this wine has structure, complexity and an innate fresh character. —R.V.
92–94 Château d'Armailhac (Pauillac). Packed with dark tannins and spicy wood, the wine is rich, dark and very structured. It is powered as much by its tannins as its wood. —R.V.
92–94 Château de Pez (Saint-Estèphe). A very firm and closed wine. It has intense tannins, with the fruit following slowly behind. The structure is impressive, while the black-currant flavors are still to show. —R.V.
92–94 Château Gruaud Larose (Saint-Julien). While the wine does have firm tannins, these are layered with open, ripe fruits. There are blackberry flavors, and the wine shows good acidity and a firm finish. —R.V.
92–94 Château Lalande Borie (Saint-Julien). A ripe and spicy wine, with crisp fruit. The wine has an attractive fruitiness, and its tannins are not aggressive. This shows great final acidity. —R.V.
92–94 Les Forts de Latour (Pauillac). There is weight, richness and firm spice flavor here. The wine has a juicy character along with firm tannins. It shows the pure fruit freshness of the vintage, with a little extra weight. —R.V.
92–94 Château Lynch-Moussas (Pauillac). This is a dense wine, with complex and concentrated flavors of sweet plum, chocolate and licorice. It’s powerful, showing its extraction. —R.V.
92–94 Château Ormes de Pez (Saint-Estèphe). Ripe and sweet tannins combine easily with this wine’s juicy fruit and spice notes. All of the elements hang comfortably together. —R.V.
91–93 Château Beaumont (Haut Médoc). Initially severe, this wine shows weight coupled with firm, dry tannins. Dense and complex black-currant flavors dominate. —R.V.
91–93 Château Cos Labory (Saint-Estèphe). Along with its Saint-Estèphe tannins, this wine proves to be richly fruity and complex, with notes of spice. The finish shows the acidity of the year. —R.V.
91–93 Croix de Beaucaillou (Saint-Julien). This is big and solid wine, with firm tannins and juicy fruit. It shows spice and intense acidity followed by black-currant freshness. —R.V.
91–93 Château Duhart-Milon (Pauillac). Rich, spicy and dense, this wine shows a serious side. It has power and concentration, and the wood offers dryness as well as spice. Its fruit seems to be a separate layer at this stage. —R.V.
91–93 Château Grand Puy Lacoste (Pauillac). An attractive and fruity wine that offers soft, cushioned tannins, along with ripe, easy fruit. —R.V.
91–93 Le Petit Mouton (Pauillac). Mouton Rothschild's second wine is showing increasing stature. This vintage shows spice, new wood and Mouton’s signature acidity. It has a soft, rounded texture, with a plump, warm feel. —R.V.
91–93 Château Pibran (Pauillac). This wine shows dense fruit and concentrated tannins. It has richness without great complexity; but it boasts spice, fresh fruit and tingling acidity. —R.V.
91–93 Château Saint-Pierre (Saint-Julien). Ripe and spicy, with delicious open fruit, this wine is rounded yet has a straight line of pure acidity. It has a light touch while showing depth of flavor for the future. —R.V.
90–92 Château Citran (Haut Médoc). A rounded rich wine, showing the juicy fruit of the year along with rich tannins. It is spicy, lively and impressive. —R.V.
90–92 Château Coufran (Haut Médoc). Rich and ripe, the wine has delicious Cabernet flavors. It offers ripe and rounded fruits with juiciness rather than great density. —R.V.
90–92 Château Fonbadet (Pauillac). With big sweet fruits from the Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine has weight, structure and the juicy charm of the year. —R.V.
90–92 Château Haut Marbuzet (Saint-Estèphe). With its new-wood smoothness, this is a luxurious wine. It has dry tannins, yet they are cushioned by the wood and black-currant fruit. —R.V.
90–92 Château Haut-Bages Libéral (Pauillac). This is a brooding, dark wine; its tannins are evident, with a complex series of dark, dense flavors. Its fruit is buried under all of its tannic scaffolding. —R.V.
90–92 La Dame de Montrose (Saint-Estèphe). Initially this seems soft, but with time the more powerful fruit character comes through. It has weight, with a dark chocolate and spice intensity. —R.V.
90–92 Château le Boscq (Saint-Estèphe). Dense and concentrated; the tannins are a worthy partner to the firm flavors of black plum skin. This wine is solid and chunky, with the year's crisp fruit showing through. —R.V.
90–92 Les Tourelles de Longueville (Pauillac). This is a soft wine, with dominating fruit. It has flavors of black currant and spice, firm tannins and an attractive ripe center. —R.V.
90–92 Pagodes de Cos (Saint-Estèphe). With all the freshness of the year, this wine is ripe and soft. It has acidity and juicy black-currant flavor. The wine is spiced, with its ripe tannins well integrated. —R.V.
90–92 Château Tronquoy-Lalande (Saint-Estèphe). The tannins show in this wine’s very dry and firm core. There is minerality and a tight texture. Under the tannins, there is a juicy fruit layer with a black-currant character. —R.V.
89–91 Château d'Agassac (Haut Médoc). Spicy wood cuts through the ripe blackberry fruit. This wine is smooth and polished, with balancing acidity. Juicy fruits show on the finish. —R.V.
89–91 Château Larose Trintaudon (Haut Médoc). Full-bodied and warm, this is a smooth wine. It’s very accessible with blackberry fruit and delicious acidity. An attractive wine. —R.V.
88–90 Château Bellegrave (Pauillac). Offering great swathes of tannins and black-currant flavors, this is a wine with great freshness as well as a more spicy character. —R.V.
88–90 Château de Villegeorge (Haut Médoc). This is a ripe, extracted wine, with chocolate and firm tannins layered over the blackberry fruit. —R.V.
88–90 Château Lilian Ladouys (Saint-Estèphe). A wine with deep tannins and a very dry character, this is big and solid, but maybe lacking fruit. —R.V.
88–90 Château Malescasse (Haut Médoc). A wine that seems lean—it doesn't have the fruit weight to support the tannins, offering instead a more structured character. —R.V.
88–90 Château Peyrabon (Haut Médoc). This wine shows flavors of smooth new wood and black plum. It’s soft and fruity, with sweet, ripe tannins. —R.V.
88–90 Château Phélan-Ségur (Saint-Estèphe). Very heavily laden with wood, the wine shows extraction and dark tannins. The fruit lies under the dominant toast. —R.V.
87–89 Goulée (Médoc). This is a big, fruity and soft wine. It is rich and opulent, with firm tannins and some extract. —R.V.
87–89 Château Lamothe-Cissac (Haut Médoc). This is a soft and fruity wine, its acidity prominent and its tannins well behind. Not for aging. —R.V.
87–89 Château Reysson (Haut Médoc). While the wood flavor dominates here, it does support the ripe blackberry fruit. This wine’s fruitiness will eventually be what marks the wine out. —R.V.
Published on Apr 5, 2012
BY ROGER VOSS
Wine buyers gather at Château de Fieuzal in Pessac-Léognan to taste the 2011 white and red wines. Photo courtesy Kathy Buckley.
Tasting dry white wines Thursday in Léognan was like a return to the delicious, ageworthy 2007s but with extra weight. There is the freshness and mouthwatering fruit of the 2007 vintage (a washout for dramatic reds), and the 2011 richness adds notes of apricots and peaches to underlying citrus. Stars include chateaus Pape Clément, Malartic-Lagravière and Domaine de Chevalier.
While in 2007, Château Haut-Brion’s small-production white was my “Wine of the Vintage,” in 2011 it was spoiled by an alcohol burn and too much intensity. The blend changed: Sauvignon Blanc increased and Sémillon decreased due to replanting. (My take on Haut-Brion’s red will be in tomorrow’s notes.)
It’s a good thing Pessac-Léognan has white wines. The dry year finally caught up with the red grapes at harvest time, resulting in small berries, plenty of skin and not much juice—ultimately producing overly tannic red wines. In Pessac-Léognan, these wines lack flesh, and it’s hard to find fruit in the nose or on the palate with so much dryness and structure.
White wine isn’t often the story in Bordeaux. But dry or sweet, they can be delicious. And these whites could be the deal of the vintage. Maybe a royal flush.
Bordeaux wines tasted from barrel are awarded scores in three-point ranges. When the wines are bottled in two or three years, the wines are reassessed, and final ratings are given.
95–97 Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan). A powerful wine that’s full of wood and ripe tropical-fruit flavors. It also has an intensely mineral structure that powers the wine right through to the concentrated finish. —R.V.
95–97 Château Malartic-Lagravière (Pessac-Léognan). This wine is rich with flavors of tropical fruit and citrus, with judicious wood aging and fine concentration. —R.V.
95–97 Château Pape Clément (Pessac-Léognan). Showing new wood spice, this rich and full-bodied wine also has weighty fruit, with creamy and herbaceous qualities. —R.V.
94–96 Château La Louvière (Pessac-Léognan). An intensely herbaceous wine, with delicious flavors of grapefruit, apricot juice and spice. The finish is lively and fruity, with mineral acidity. —R.V.
94–96 Château La Mission Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan). This is taut and tight, with so much spice and pepper from the high alcohol and wood aging. But it’s the intensity of fruit that makes this wine such a blockbuster. —R.V.
94–96 Château Smith Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan). Showing a judicious blend of new wood and ripe fruit, this is a wine that has a creamed-apple texture. It’s full of bright grapefruit, sweet apple and green plum flavors. —R.V.
93–95 Château Carbonnieux (Pessac-Léognan). Very herbaceous in character, this is a wine that is packed with powerful acidity yet remains elegant in style. It has minerality and tight acidity, and should benefit from aging. —R.V.
93–95 Château de France (Pessac-Léognan). A finely balanced wine, with a ripe mix of mango, apricot and pink grapefruit flavors. It has a fresh edge along with a rich, full character. —R.V.
93–95 Château Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan). This wine has an intense herbaceous quality, with fruit and nutmeg flavors. It feels and tastes powerful, with alcoholic warmth and a taut and nervy character. —R.V.
93–95 Pavillon Blanc de Château Margaux (Bordeaux Blanc). Spice and green apple flavors dominate the palate of this crisp yet creamy wine. It has a fine, dense texture, and the fruit comes through with great intensity. The wood is neatly in support. —R.V.
92–94 Château de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan). A big, fruity wine that manages to balance its ripe tropical-fruit flavors with notes of spice and grapefruit. It has weight and is still settling down. Concentrated and intense. —R.V.
92–94 La Clarté de Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan). A herbaceous wine that has ripe yellow-fruit flavors. It is rich and fruity, and layered with grapefruit and sweet peach notes. It finishes tight, with minerality. —R.V.
92–94 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan). Creamed fruit aromas are followed by a herbaceous quality. The wine has some richness and new-wood flavors; mouth-watering acidity marks the finish. —R.V.
92–94 Château Latour-Martillac (Pessac-Léognan). This wine is tight and taut, with minerality. Its fruit is heavily citrusy, with a character that cuts like steel through the nervy texture. This shows aging potential. —R.V.
91–93 Château Bouscaut (Pessac-Léognan). A lively, bright wine that’s not too weighty. It has notes of mineral and citrus, with attractive acidity and just the right amount of balancing weight. —R.V.
91–93 Château Ferrande (Graves). With a dominant austere minerality, this wine has weight but not the delicious fruitiness of the vintage. The finish is marked by a steely texture. —R.V.
91–93 Château La Garde (Pessac-Léognan). This wine shows white and yellow fruits with a note of spice. It’s warm and rich, with mouthwatering acidity and a crisp lemon finish. —R.V.
91–93 Château Olivier (Pessac-Léognan). A wine with weight and richness, there is considerable concentration, with citrus flavor and ripe fruit densely set in the background. —R.V.
91–93 Château Rahoul (Graves). Despite some reductive character on the nose, the fruit on the palate shows good weight and richness. It should become a rich, citrus-flavored wine. —R.V.
90–92 Château de Chantegrive (Graves). This is a light and fruity wine, with prominent wood. It has a crisp texture that’s very bright, with some weight showing on the finish. —R.V.
90–92 Château Picque Caillou (Pessac-Léognan). A herbaceous, fruity wine, with its acidity well integrated into the ripe, bright fruits. The wine is light, fresh and crisp, with an attractive lemon-curd note —R.V.
89–91 Clos Nardian (Bordeaux Blanc). Ripe, smooth and creamy in texture, this wine has rich flavors of spice and green fruit. —R.V.
89–91 Château Cos d'Estournel (Bordeaux Blanc). This has a taut and very herbaceous character, with a crisp green-apple flavors and creamy feel. —R.V.
89–91 Château Haut Bergey (Pessac-Léognan). This is a fruity wine that’s packed with citrus flavor. With its light, bright and crisp mouthfeel, this is likely to develop quickly. —R.V.
93–95 Château La Mission Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan). An impressive wood- and tannin-laden wine, with intense, solid fruit. It’s powerful, very dry and complex. —R.V.
92–94 Château Haut Bailly (Pessac-Léognan). Packed with dense tannins and firm fruit, this is a big, powerful wine. It is initially austere, but with time it becomes more rounded, with layers of wood tannins and rich fruit. —R.V.
91–93 Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan). This wine’s concentrated tannins match the sweet fruit and ripe acidity. It shows structure and density, with its blackberry flavor already showing well. ––R.V.
91–93 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan). A very smoky wine, with firm tannins, intense spice and a dry bitter-chocolate character. Its freshness is currently overlain by the wood and fruit tannins. ––R.V.
91–93 Château Malartic-Lagravière (Pessac-Léognan). Showing the acidity and fresh fruit of the vintage, this wine has both structure and density. It’s well-made, showing just the right amount of fruit and a judicious use of wood. —R.V.
91–93 Château Smith Haut Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan). This wine has density, with very dry, massive tannins. This is a wine for long-term aging; it has a solid texture, with its fruit well buried.—R.V.
90–92 Château Carbonnieux (Pessac-Léognan). This is a wine that’s likely to age relatively quickly. It shows sweet wood and black-currant flavors that combine with a spicy element. —R.V.
90–92 Château de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan). This is a big, ripe, fruity wine, filled with smoky wood, spice and black-currant acidity. It is rich and fruit filled. —R.V.
90–92 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan). While certainly powered by tannins, this wine does have a rich, fruity character as well. The finish brings juicy flavors that cut right through the tannins. —R.V.
90–92 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan). Initially, this wine shows spice and round fruit notes, followed by a tannic structure. The wine has weight, with a feeling of balanced wood and plenty of juicy flavors on the finish. —R.V.
90–92 Château Pape Clément (Pessac-Léognan). This is a closed wine, dominated by dark, dry tannins and spice. The wine misses fruit with its solid core of dryness. —R.V.
89–91 Château de Chantegrive (Graves). There is a good balance here between the ripe blackberry fruits and the solid tannins. This wine shows new wood and a touch of green flavor. —R.V.
89–91 Château de France (Pessac-Léognan). A very tannic, bone-dry wine, this shows a hard edge that doesn’t marry well with the fruit. Always likely to be austere, it’s powerful and dense. —R.V.
89–91 Château les Carmes Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan). Initially hard edged, this wine evolves to show a more accessible, fruity character. There is weight here, powered by fruit tannins and a solid texture on the finish. —R.V.
89–91 Château Olivier (Pessac-Léognan). This is a solid wine with a dense texture and powerful tannins. Its big structure supports ripe fruits, with sweet berries and fine density at the end. —R.V.
88–90 Château Bouscaut (Pessac-Léognan). Light, fresh and fruity, this is a wine that shows a delicate character that’s unusual for the vintage. It has blackberry fruits, some soft tannins and new-wood flavors. —R.V.
88–90 Château Ferrande (Graves). Fresh acidity dominates here. This wine is light in texture and the tannins have a rounded edge. While it is dry, the wood imparts notes of caramel. —R.V.
88–90 Château Haut Bergey (Pessac-Léognan). Showing spicy wood with firm, black-currant tannins and gentle fruit, this wine is rounded, soft and accessible. —R.V.
88–90 Château la Garde (Pessac-Léognan). Spicy new-wood flavors and dry tannins characterize this wine, with only a hint of dark berry fruits. This is smoky, toasty and dominated by its structure. —R.V.
88–90 Château La Louvière (Pessac-Léognan). This wine is on the lean side, although there is attractive black-currant fruit at the core. The wine is developing its weight into an expression that will be more substantial. —R.V.
88–90 Château Latour-Martillac (Pessac-Léognan). Firmly tannic on the initial taste, this wine shows bell pepper and juicy black-fruit flavors. It is light and fruity, and finishes with dry tannins. —R.V.
87–89 Château Rahoul (Graves). Here is a well-made, accessible wine, full of blackberry fruits, sweet tannins and a soft, spicy texture. Not for long aging. —R.V.
86–88 Château Picque Caillou (Pessac-Léognan). Very concentrated and dominated by acidity, this wine is on the dry side. It misses weight and opulence, offering an austere texture. —R.V.
Published on Apr 6, 2012
BY ROGER VOSS
Journalists taste the 2011 vintage at Château Canon in Saint-Émilion.
Despite all the weather problems, this vintage has produced some great wines. These are the wines where producers worked hard—harder than ever—to cope and to get the grapes at optimum condition into the cellars. My wine of the vintage proved the great advantage of a biodynamic vineyard in a tough year, where drought was an ever-present factor.
For me, Château Pontet-Canet, in Pauillac, emphasizes all the virtues of the year with its pure fruit and great depth of flavor. Château Pontet-Canet is my Wine of the 2011 Vintage.
In this year, when some regions performed so much better than others, one in particular stood out. Sauternes and Barsac, home of sweet wines, had a stunning year. What was so exciting was the high level of quality, with normal underachievers putting on the performance of a lifetime. If you buy no other 2011s, buy these fabulous wines.
Bordeaux’s honeyed, rich and glorious sweet wines from Sauternes and Barsac are my 2011 vintage Region of the Year.
Bordeaux wines tasted from barrel are awarded scores in three-point ranges. When the wines are bottled in two or three years, the wines are reassessed, and final ratings are given.
There are five classified first growths in the Médoc and Pessac-Léognan. There is one super first, the sweet white Sauternes of Château d’Yquem. And there are three great growths on the Right Bank (Chateaus Pétrus, Ausone, Cheval Blanc). Together, these are the great growths of Bordeaux. Here are my reviews of the 2011 vintage.
There are five classified first growths in the Médoc and Pessac-Léognan. There is one super first, the sweet white Sauternes of Château d’Yquem. And there are three great growths on the Right Bank (Chateaus Pétrus, Ausone and Cheval Blanc). Together, these are the great growths of Bordeaux. Here are my reviews of the 2011 vintage.
95–97 Château Ausone (Saint-Émilion). A deliciously-perfumed wine, with a dark and intense tannic structure. It is spiced and concentrated, with a plum character and great richness on the finish. —R.V.
95–97 Château Cheval Blanc (Saint-Émilion). This has sweet and soft tannins, with a smoky flavor that lingers on the ripe, opulent finish. Its initial richness suggests it could almost be consumed now, until you taste the massively-structured finish. —R.V.
95–97 Château d'Yquem (Sauternes). Rich, with intense flavors of botrytis, lemon and Seville orange peel. This wine has both freshness and sweetness, with a light touch. —R.V.
95–97 Château Lafite Rothschild (Pauillac). A powerful wine with dark and dry tannins. It has a great depth of fruit flavor, with immense and concentrated weight, and a structure that is for long-term aging. —R.V.
95–97 Château Latour (Pauillac). This wine has a juicy character and firm tannins. Its fruit is packed around the dense core, showing weight and intensity. —R.V.
95–97 Château Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac). Smooth, opulent tannins lend a velvety texture. This wine shows weight and spice, with potential power. —R.V.
94–96 Château Pétrus (Pomerol). This is elegant, fresh and structured, with its blackberry fruit shining right through the wood. Style trumps power in this wine. —R.V.
94–96 Château Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan). An impressively silky wine. Dry yet intensely fruity, the palate shows big fruit, smooth tannins and a perfumed character. —R.V.
94–96 Château Margaux (Margaux). Dry with a firm core of dark tannins and solid fruits. It is packed with tannins, showing tight acidity as well as a forward black-currant flavor. It dances with the appellation’s classic lightness. —R.V.
95–97 Vieux Château Certan (Pomerol). A beautifully-perfumed wine with ripe, soft tannins and sweet fruit. It has density yet the tannins are so velvety and ripe. —R.V.
94–96 Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarosse (Saint-Émilion). Big and powerful, this is a wine that is supported by dense tannins. The feeling is dry and firm, with a brooding black-currant character. —R.V.
94–96 Clos Fourtet (Saint-Émilion). A finely balanced wine—its immense tannins are mitigated by the fruit and dark chocolate flavors. It finishes with a hint of smoky wood. —R.V.
93–95 Château Bélair Monange (Saint-Émilion). The wine shows dryness and concentration, with a core of austere tannins. Its juicy character slowly emerges. —R.V.
93–95 Château Canon (Saint-Émilion). A firm and tannic wine, it has the weight to support its tannins. It’s balanced, solid and dense, with a powerful shot of black fruits. —R.V.
93–95 Château Figeac (Saint-Émilion). A rich, smooth and velvety wine, this has richness and weight along with delicious acidity. There is a good depth of texture and structure along with a ripe feel. —R.V.
93–95 Château Trotanoy (Pomerol). A fine wine that shows crisp fruit and a dense, dry structure. This is solid, fruit-packed and firm. —R.V.
92–94 Château Angélus (Saint-Émilion). Very dry, firm and hard, this is heavily dominated by new wood. It's only the underlying weight that suggests the black fruit potential. —R.V.
92–94 Château Beau-Séjour Bécot (Saint-Émilion). Mint flavors make the initial impression, with its fruit buried deep in the concentrated structure. Wood tannins dominate this polished wine, but its finish shows a juicy character. —R.V.
92–94 Château Certan de May de Certan (Pomerol). Firm and concentrated, this wine has great structure and density along with acidity and berry flavor. There is an attractive final spicy element. —R.V.
92–94 Château Hosanna (Pomerol). An impressive and powerful wine, with its tannins packed into rich flavors of bitter chocolate and black fruit. —R.V.
92–94 La Chapelle d'Ausone (Saint-Émilion). A big wine that’s packed with ripe dark-plum flavors, smoky tannins and richness. It shows a powerful, balanced structure. —R.V.
92–94 Château La Fleur Pétrus (Pomerol). Made in an elegant style, this wine has richness without weight. It is stylish with some freshness, bearing black fruits and a perfumed finish. —R.V.
92–94 Château Larmande (Saint-Émilion). Very concentrated, this has dark tannins and dense fruits. It has power, intensity and the essence of black plum skin. —R.V.
92–94 Le Dôme (Saint-Émilion). While the wood is prominent, so is its concentrated, perfumed fruit. With its immense structure, this wine is spicy and very intense. —R.V.
92–94 Château Madgelaine (Saint-Émilion). A dark, dry wine that shows its strong, firm tannins. The wine is well structured, with flavors of mint, new wood and a layer of blackberry fruit. —R.V.
92–94 Château Petit Village (Pomerol). A solid, chunky wine that feels powerful and dense. Its tannins overlay the ripe fruit, and the finish has a juicy character. —R.V.
92–94 Château Troplong Mondot (Saint-Émilion). Mint and new wood aromas lead to a palate that has dark and concentrated tannins. The wine is bright and fresh, with juicy black-currant and plum flavors. —R.V.
92–94 Château Trottevielle (Saint-Émilion). This wine is powered with acidity, dark tannins and smoky wood. Concentrated and dense, it has weight along with the delicious, juicy fruits. —R.V.
92–94 Vieux Château Mazerat (Saint-Émilion). A powerful wine, with dark fruits and structured tannins. Impressively rich, it is dense and black in character. —R.V.
91–93 Château Clinet (Pomerol). Blackberry fruits dominate this ripe wine. It is already delicious, with a round and well-cushioned structure. —R.V.
91–93 Château Haut Sarpe (Saint-Émilion). This wine has firm, solid tannins, but enough rich dark fruit to sustain all of the dryness. —R.V.
91–93 Château La Cabanne (Pomerol). Dry and dense, this wine has weight and a juicy character that slowly surfaces. A final burst of tannins marks the finish. —R.V.
91–93 Château La Gaffelière (Saint-Émilion). Lean and austere on the surface, this wine shows a bitter chocolate edge. It feels extracted, very dark and concentrated. —R.V.
91–93 Château Le Bon Pasteur (Pomerol). A smooth, rounded wine, this shows opulence with its rich blackberry fruit. —R.V.
91–93 Les Astéries (Saint-Émilion). This is a dark and dense wine, with big tannins and a solid structure. It shows great weight, with an intense minerality. —R.V.
91–93 Château Moulin Saint-Georges (Saint-Émilion). A delicious wine, with ripe plum and berry flavors. It pairs acidity and firm tannins with its fruit. —R.V.
91–93 Château Pavie Macquin (Saint-Émilion). A bright, fruit-forward wine that already shows its delicious blackberry flavors. It is ripe and juicy, with a layer of finely integrated tannins. —R.V.
91–93 Château Providence (Pomerol). This has an herbal character along with spice. It’s juicy, with intense acidity. —R.V.
90–91 Château Beauregard (Pomerol). Aromas of new wood mark this wine. On the palate, the tannins are gentle, with flavors of ripe black plum, nutmeg and milk chocolate. —R.V.
90–92 Château Bourgneuf (Pomerol). This has some weight and richness, with chunky fruit and sweet tannins. This wine is concentrated and very firm. —R.V.
90–92 Château Canon la Gaffelière (Saint-Émilion). A juicy and forward wine, with attractive spice and sweet tannins. It’s soft and gentle on the palate. —R.V.
90–92 Château Corbin Despagne (Saint-Émilion). This is an impressively rich wine that’s packed with forward fruit and spice flavors. It has power and dark tannins while retaining a fine sense of style. —R.V.
90–92 Château Fombrauge (Saint-Émilion). Big and serious, with a well-balanced wood and spice character. The tense tannins provide a nervy, tight counterpoint. —R.V.
90–92 Château Franc Mayne (Saint-Émilion). Sweet new-wood flavors smooth this wine. It is rich and ripe, with juicy fruits surrounding the firm core of tannins. —R.V.
90–92 Château La Couspaude (Saint-Émilion). A powerhouse of dark tannins, this wine is black in color and dark in taste. It has bitter chocolate flavors, with notes of new wood and intense spice. —R.V.
90–92 Château La Dominique (Saint-Émilion). Dense and concentrated, this is a massive wine that’s packed with tannins. —R.V.
90–92 Château La Tour Figeac (Saint-Émilion). This wine is powered by its perfumed Cabernet Franc character. It’s rich, with a well-integrated structure. —R.V.
90–92 Château Latour à Pomerol (Pomerol). This wine is laden with tannins yet shows juicy, crisp red-berry flavors. It finishes with great structure.—R.V.
90–92 Le Carré (Saint-Émilion). Powerful, ripe and dense with its tannins, spice and sweet fruit, this wine is juicy with blackberry notes and a dark, solid texture. —R.V.
90–92 Le Petit Cheval (Saint-Émilion). This wine is very warm and rich. It shows spicy fruit with the weight and dark tannins to match. Opulent, juicy and ripe. —R.V.
90–92 Château Nenin (Pomerol). Powerful tannins and a distinct, solid core distinguish this very dark wine, showing sweet fruit notes with a blackberry juice flavor. It’s very fruity at the end. —R.V.
90–92 Château Pavie (Saint-Émilion). Here is a ripe and juicy wine that pushes forward with delicious blackberry fruits. There is a tense edge of acidity that then brings out denser tannins, but juiciness characterizes this wine. —R.V.
90–92 Château Villemaurine (Saint-Émilion). Powerful and concentrated, this is a wine with smoky flavors–very dark and intense. The fruit weight is well under the very firm and dry tannic character. —R.V.
89–90 Château Berliquet (Saint-Émilion). The tannins are tough, although the fruit character is juicy in this wine. This makes for a well-structured, solid expression, with intense and crisp acidity at the end. —R.V.
89–91 Château Cap de Mourlin (Saint-Émilion). Hugely tannic, this wine powers through the dry structure leaving fruit lost in its wake. There is a final dark bite on the palate. —R.V.
89–91 Château Faugères (Saint-Émilion). This wine shows mint and spice flavors, new wood and soft tannins. Fruity, attractively forward and ripe. —R.V.
89–91 Château Fleur Cardinale (Saint-Émilion). Here is a warm, ripe wine with dark tannins. It’s well spiced and fruity, showing crisp black currant fruits. —R.V.
89–91 Château Fontenil (Fronsac). Firm and dense with dark, dry fruits, this is a powerful wine for the year, while keeping an elegant, delicious style. —R.V.
89–91 Château La Croix de Gay (Pomerol). Here is a smoky, juicy wine, its tannins soft and gentle while also showing ripe spice and mouthwatering acidity. The dry tannins at the end provide structure. —R.V.
89–91 Château la Fleur de Boüard (Lalande de Pomerol). A wine that has the richenss of a Pomerol, it’s very ripe and concentrated, with the addition of chocolaty and smoky flavors. The fruit is ripe, edging towards extracted. —R.V.
89–91 Château la Grave (Pomerol). This wine has a classic fruit structure, very black currant in character. The wine is rich with a smoky core, with bitter chocolate notes and sweet tannins. —R.V.
89–91 Château la Serre (Saint-Émilion). This wine shows firm tannins, yet is also fruity. It feels light and fresh with attractive acidity and a crisp touch. —R.V.
89–91 Château la Tour de Pin (Saint-Émilion). With a firm edge and some bitterness, this wine does have softer tannins in the center, followed by juicy acidity and bright berry fruits. —R.V.
89–91 Château Lassègue (Saint-Émilion). Spicy new wood dominates this wine, with the weight of fruit to justify it. It’s solid, full-bodied and already balanced. —R.V.
89–91 Château Péby Faugères (Saint-Émilion). While there is 100% new wood, the weight of fruit in this expression is sufficient to power through. It will be an impressive wine. —R.V.
89–91 Château Quintus (Saint-Émilion). This wine is ripe and juicy, with full, soft tannins, jammy fruit and sweet plum flavors. It shows the acidity of the year with final notes of tobacco and smoke. —R.V.
89–91 Château Soutard (Saint-Émilion). Mint and plum-juice flavors mingle easily in this densely fruity wine. It combines sweet tannins and dark fruit with spice imparted from wood aging. It’s already juicily attractive. —R.V.
88–90 Château Balestard la Tonnelle (Saint-Émilion). Generously fruity, packed with sweet tannins and ripe fruits, this wine shows wood aging with licorice notes and a final burnt character. —R.V.
88–90 Château Cadet Bon (Saint-Émilion). A firm wine with a black currant character, it’s fruity, solid and chunky with gripping tannins. —R.V.
88–90 Château Corbin Michotte (Saint-Émilion). This light-bodied wine shows ripe fruit, some spice and wood. Not a great weight but it’s fruity. —R.V.
88–90 Château Gazin (Pomerol). This firmly tannic wine has a dry character that lays over lighter fruits. With soft spice and some sweetness, this wine is developing already. —R.V.
88–90 Château Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Figeac (Saint-Émilion). Filled with new wood, spice and toast, this wine is open and rich, moving more to fruit than tannin. —R.V.
88–90 Château Haut Simard (Saint-Émilion). This wine is structured with firm tannins, ripe plum fruits and a touch of coffee, though acidity is also present. —R.V.
88–90 Château La Conseillante (Pomerol). Juicy and fruity, this wine shows attractive black currant flavors, rounded with the tannins already well integrated. —R.V.
88–90 Château La Pointe (Pomerol). A rounded, soft and rich wine, it shows sweet tannins and a ripe blackberry fruit character. This expression is juicy, ripe and fruity. —R.V.
88–90 Château Lafleu-Gazin (Pomerol). There is some warmth here, with the tannins providing a firm base for the crisp fruit. This wine shows some richness as well as intense acidity. —R.V.
88–90 Château Quinault l'Enclos (Saint-Émilion). A huge, extracted wine, it shows very ripe fruit dominated by dark tannins and a big black plum skin texture. —R.V.
87–89 Château Bellefont Belcier (Saint-Émilion). Smooth and rich, this wine is dominated by firm tannins, tarry fruit and new wood. —R.V.
87–89 Château Clos de Sarpe (Saint-Émilion). Here is a wine with weight and richness, aided by new-wood aging. It has toast and ripe black-plum flavors. —R.V.
87–89 Château Dassault (Saint-Émilion). Caramel aromas from new wood dominate this wine. It’s all burnt, toasty wood and dense tannins. —R.V.
87–89 Château Fonbel (Saint-Émilion). This is a juicy, fresh wine with a layer of spice. It has blackberry juice, sweet tannins and an intense acidity. —R.V.
87–89 Château Fonplégade (Saint-Émilion). This is a rich, soft, full-bodied wine with smooth tannins and fat plum fruits. —R.V.
87–89 Château Grand Mayne (Saint-Émilion). Here is a very tannic, extracted wine. It’s dark, full of bitter chocolate, all structure and no flesh. —R.V.
87–89 Château Guadet (Saint-Émilion). This dark-hued wine shows some fine tannins and has a solid fruit character and a bitter chocolate note.—R.V.
87–89 Château Laforge (Saint-Émilion). A fruity wine with plenty of dense tannins and a solid structure, this expression is powered by acidity, black fruit and a dark, dry finish. —R.V.
87–89 Château Larcis Ducasse (Saint-Émilion). Concentrated, with bitter fruit and wood characters, this wine feels hard and extracted, with a burnt finish. —R.V.
87–89 Château Teyssier (Saint-Émilion). Structured and firm with cassis and spice, this wine is layered with wood, acidity and a delicious freshness. —R.V.
86–88 Château Bergat (Saint-Émilion). Dark, dense and lean in character, this wine misses real fruit weight. The year's crispness is evident. —R.V.
86–88 Château la Dauphine (Fronsac). Soft and fruity with red currant fruits and forward light tannins, this wine is attractive and already drinkable. —R.V.
86–88 Pezat (Bordeaux). Smooth, rounded, fresh wine with attractive black- currant acidity. The wine is bright, fruity and forward in character. —R.V.
86–88 Château Plince (Pomerol). Here is a light, juicy wine with intense acidity. There is some green fruit here along with firm tannins and tight black currants. —R.V.
86–88 Château Simard (Saint-Émilion). There is attractive juicy fruit with a soft layer of tannins in this wine. It’s bright with very crisp acidity and a fruity finish. —R.V.
86–88 Château Tour de Pin Figeac (Saint-Émilion). Dark with spicy fruit, tense tannins and very firm fruit, this wine is rather lean in texture. —R.V.
85–87 Château Cheval Noir (Saint-Émilion). Here is a big and solid wine, dominated by dark wood tannins. It is heavy on the toast. —R.V.
85–87 Château Coutet (Saint-Émilion). Here is an attractive fruity wine with good acidity and lively black currant notes. It’s soft and low in tannins. —R.V.
